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Cambodia – Jungle Trekking in Koh Kong

7 Dec

Koh Kong is the most Southwestern province of Cambodia and has a long undeveloped coastline and a mountainous, forested and largely inaccessible interior. Tourism to this area is still relatively new and we were excited to be among its newest explorers!

In the province’s capital, Koh Kong City, we found a little paradise in the Oasis Bungalow Resort (http://oasisresort.netkhmer.com) – a small complex of five, very spacious hut bungalows.  This very calm resort has the most beautiful infinity pool overlooking the gorgeous Cardamon Mountains.  Its owner, Jason Webb, a passionate Irish expat with strong views about Cambodian life, and plentiful energy to entertain the kids (showing them the many creatures living on the premises – especially large geckos and frogs), kept us dutifully informed and entertained.

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The infinity pool the Oasis Bungalow Resort in Koh Kong, overlooking the jungle

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Jason Webb, the spirited owner of the Oasis Bungalow Resort

Visiting Koh Kong is not complete without a jungle trek, and so we booked our full day of Cardamon Mountain explorations.  We were picked up by a tuktuk and transported to the dock for our Long Tail boat ride, taking us deep into the mountainous region. The hour-long boat ride was a fun one; we had to ensure we were all sitting still not to capsize the structure – one move from someone on one side of the boat had to quickly be compensated by someone on the other side (we has some very close calls)!  The views were magnificent – we saw large, white herons fly fast & low over the water and thoroughly enjoyed the many sounds of the various jungle species (apparently the mountains are home to 450 types of bird species as well as Siamese crocodiles, Asian elephants, Indochinese tigers, clouded leopards, Malayan sun bears, white bellied rats etc.– none of which we sadly or… should I say gladly, encountered on our trek!)

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Our Long Tail boat

The start of our jungle trek was quite steep as we made our way high up into the mountains, through very dense forest. Our guide always walked ahead of us with his incredible large, sharp and primitive looking knife. He quickly cut away any bamboo or menacing branches in our path and used his knife to make spear-like, bamboo walking sticks for the kids.  After about 40 minutes of hiking, we reached a beautiful viewpoint – giving us a bird’s eye view of the elegantly flowing river we had just crossed and the vast region of surrounding, lush jungle.

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Viewpoint over the Cardamon Mountains

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Filou in Bamboo Jungle

Our trail continued and we eventually reached a gorge and arrived at some beautiful waterfalls. It was here that we paused for an extended time to have lunch and a swim. A section of these waterfalls were a natural waterslide, and of course the boys had to give this a try. Sliding down in the rushing water over many a slippery rock gave them lots of giggles and slightly sore behinds, but they loved it! The cool flowing water also helped to rinse off the blood from their legs and ankles – caused by the many small leaches that had attached themselves and caused what Filou called a “mini blood bath” on his leg (nothing too serious but this was the real jungle after all)!

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Our legs attacked by the jungle leaches

Trying to keep up with the climbing skill of our boys, I tempted to mount a large, very slippery rock that would lead me to the top of the waterfall.  Unfortunately, I am not quite as monkey-like as my sons and slipped with my leg into a deep groove and scraped it going all the way down!  Our smiley guide was quick to my rescue! When I first looked at my foot and saw a bone sticking out, I thought this was the end of Cambodia and we were heading to Thailand for medical treatment, but putting my legs into the cold running water of the waterfall helped the swelling go down quickly – and it was not as bad as I thought!  However, our lovely guide leader was now completely focused on me – rubbing Tiger balm all over my scrapes & bruises and providing his very strong, steady arm all the way during our trek back.

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Cooling sore legs in cold, streaming waterfall water

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Of course, we gave him an extra little tip for his kindness – something he deserved but might have also helped to save an extra animal or two. You ask why? Well, the population in the Cardamon Mountain Ranges is small and very poor. It has always threatened the biological diversity of the region due to illegal logging, wildlife poaching and forest fires, caused by slash-and-burn agriculture. Jason told us that our jungle trekking guide was one of those animal poachers – but that since he has learned to make a living from tourism, his activities have decreased (not completely gone yet, as he still goes out when the tourism season is slowing down!).  He seemed like a very genuine, caring man, and we hope he can stay on the right path to protect the beautiful environment he is living in!

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Our jungle trekking guide 

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Perfect ending to a perfect day of jungle trekking

So we survived the jungle of Cambodia (without getting Malaria!) and had a great time!  As well, the boys learned the skill of playing pool.  Using the high quality pool table at Oasis, Emile practiced “sans cesse” and was able to beat his Papa, challenged several of the other resort guests and won….. So now, he’s ready for the master of all – his grandfather. So get ready Jichan!

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Emile the pool shark!

So it was Koh Kong, that made us into jungle trekkers and pool sharks…Now, we are ready for some culture as we move onto Siem Reap to visit the most magnificent of temples.

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